Introduction to the Clicker

This first step is essential – don’t skip it!

With this method we are going to be “shaping behaviors.”  You need a way to signal to the dog that he has just performed whatever behavior it is that you were trying to get.

Initially he will also get a treat for each correct response but since that takes a few seconds (at least) to happen, the clicker marks the exact moment of response, essentially “bridging” the time between response & reward.  This is classical conditioning, like Pavlov & his drooling dogs.  You are going to take a clicker & pair it with a food reward until the click itself gets the dog all happy.

Okay, go in a quiet room with your dog & have a bowl of really tasty treats.  Human type food such as hot dogs, chicken, roast beef, etc. works really well, so do high quality (all natural) dog treats such as the Oinker Roll.  The treats should be cut up into very small pieces & be soft (crunchy ones take too long to eat). 

Now, as long as your dog isn’t doing anything naughty at the moment, click your clicker and toss him a treat.  Then click again and toss or give a treat.  We are NOT asking for a behavior (such as sit) here at all…just making the connection needed for the clicker to be effective.  (A few dogs are frightened by the click sound.  If your dog is, then try muffling the sound by having it in a pocket.  The fear shouldn’t last long)

Repeat 10-20 times.  You’ll know when you can stop – you’ll click & your dog will immediately look up at you, “There is that sound, so where is my treat?”

There! Wasn’t that fun?  Excellent job, trainers!

Let’s Start with SIT

It is usually pretty easy to teach a dog to sit.  It is often the first thing we teach a new puppy, so your dog may already know how to sit when you ask.  One good reason for teaching sit is that when your dog is sitting it prevents her from doing other things like jumping and pulling.

CAPTURING:      Whenever you see your dog sit, click and treat it.  Try to click just as your dog sits.  Click and treat whenever she sits and you should start to see lots of sits.  When she is sitting readily and looking at you expectantly you can add a sit signal.

LURING:   If your dog is not sitting very often and you are having trouble finding opportunities to capture sits, you can speed things up a bit by luring a few sits.

Put a treat in your hand with your hand covering the treat and let your dog sniff it.  Gradually raise your hand up above your dog’s nose and slightly back towards her tail.  This should encourage her into a sitting position.  As soon as she sits click and let her eat the treat.

After luring just a few times, repeat as above but without having a treat in your hand.  When she sits, click and give her several tasty treats.  When she does this readily, you now have a hand signal for SIT.

ADDING A NEW SIGNAL:    You can have many different signals for the same behavior.  In other words you may have ten different ways to ask your dog to sit.  It is easy to add a new signal.

Rule: When adding a new signal ….. the new signal comes first

If your dog sits when you use a hand signal you can add a verbal signal by saying SIT and then following with the hand signal.  If your dog sits on a verbal signal you could add the signal of putting your hand on a door knob by holding the door knob and then saying Sit.  Done this way it is quick and easy to add new signals.

DOWN

Have a handful of treats and have the dog sitting in front of you.  Hold a treat between your thumb and the middle of your forefinger in such a way that the dog cannot take it from you, up to the dog’s nose.  Move your hand from the dog’s nose to under his chin, and then down his chest, stopping with your food hand between the dog’s front legs.  As the dog backs down to the floor to get the food, slide your food hand forward slightly on the floor towards the dog’s toes.  Click and treat any movement to drop the body toward the floor.  Toss the food treat so the dog moves and start again when he comes back to you.  Repeat, gradually increasing the criteria until the dog eventually lies all the way down.  Fade the lure as early in the process as possible, by luring without a treat in your hand and gradually reducing the lure.  Allow the dog a moment to think what behavior earned the reward and he’ll soon figure out that the down is what you want.  Jackpot the big steps toward the goal.  Repeat, working as soon as possible to have the dog offer the behavior without being lured into position.  Once the dog offers the behavior 100% of the time without being lured, add the “down” cue.  Increase duration by gradually and variably lengthening the time between the down and the click.  Proof the down by varying the location and beginning to add distractions during separate training sessions.

LEAVE IT

Have a couple of Cheerios in your left hand which will be the "Leave it" hand (to begin with, anyway) and a hot dog slice in your right hand (your "Get it" hand).  Hold out your left hand, open to show the Cheerios. Your dog will, of course, start to reach for them. Say "Leave it!" and close your hand. However, keep the hand down at his level - don't yank it away, just close it into a soft fist.  He will probably lick & nibble at your hand, trying to get the Cheerios.  When he gives up & pulls his head back you need to  immediately praise & say "Get it!" and offer the much tastier hot dog from your right hand.  Repeat this exercise 5 times.

Keep doing this until he is no longer trying for the treat from your Leave it hand. Then... switch hands! Expect to him to about start over at first, but then quickly figure out what is going on. (Ahhh... it's not which hand it's in, it's what she's saying first! Eureka!") 

At this point, you want to start requiring that your dog not only "leave it", but look up at you before you C&T with "Get it". To do that, just do what you have been, but after your dog moves away from the leave it hand, just wait.... until he looks up at you, then immediately C&T. If he takes too long to look up, then say his name to get his attention, and C&T that.  Repeat this exercise 5 times.

Next progression would be to set a treat onto the floor and say "Leave it." Reward with a jackpot if he does! Be prepared to step on it to cover it if he doesn't. In that case, just try again. When that is going well, actually toss a treat on the ground. Note - Try to usually have much better treat in your "get it" hand than what you are making him "leave".  However, make sure to practice this with some pretty high level treats as the Leave it treats as well! When the time comes when you are out in the park & he discovers a rotten frog carcass & starts drooling, you want him to respond to your "Leave it" command. He'll be amazed, thinking you actually have a treat better than rotten frog! Of course you won't (I hope!), but by then it'll be too late for your dog - you'll be past where the frog was. He'll be disappointed, but will survive. And certainly, you would lavish affection on him at that point, and give up any treats you might have on you.  Repeat this exercise 5 times.

STAY:  Don’t move from position until I release you.  Your dog can sit and down on your signal.  Now it is time to teach her to stay put, no matter what is going on, until you release her.

Before you start, decide on the verbal release signal you will use. “All done” and “Free” are two that work well.  Write your release signal here and make sure anyone involved in your dog’s training knows the release signal.

Start with sit .. stay.  Get your dog on your left side, hold her by her collar or leash and signal her to sit.

When she does, instead of clicking and treating, put 4 small tasty treats on the floor or on a chair far enough away that she can’t easily grab them but close enough that you can reach them.

If she tries to jump up and get to the treats, hold her collar or leash to prevent her from getting the treats.  When she looks to you for direction re-signal “sit”.

As soon as she sits, reach for a treat.  If she gets up, drop it and repeat as above.  When she sits again reach for the treat and deliver it to her quickly while she is still sitting.  If she should get up, drop it and repeat as above.

Each time you deliver a treat you can use your “sit” signal again and reach for a new treat.  When you have delivered all four treats, give your release signal and ignore her for a few seconds.

When she can do this easily without getting up at all, begin to add duration.  Continue to use 4 treats but wait a little longer between each treat.

When she can do this easily without getting up at all, begin to add distance.  Put the treats a little further away.  Stand up and walk out to get them.  Move around a little between her treats.  Make sure to always give your release signal before your dog gets up.

ONE STEP, TWO STEPS, THREE STEPS….

The path to Polite Walking

To get started, practice in the house where it will be easy for you and your dog to succeed.

Practice with the leash on and dragging or sometimes do it off leash.

Put your clicker in your right hand and have treats where they are easy to get with your left hand.

Set your dog up on your left side.

Take one step forward with your dog.  Click with your right hand and treat with your left hand.  Try to deliver the treat while he is right beside you.

Take two steps forward with your dog and click and treat as above.  Take three steps, click and treat and then four steps.

If at any time your dog doesn’t stay with you, play the Name Game.  Say his name and when he turns to look click and backup.  Target or lure with your left hand to get him back into heel position and then give a treat.

Start over with one step, click and treat and repeat as above.

Start over from the beginning each time that your dog leaves your side.

See how many steps you can build up to this week.

If he is very good at it, begin to practice with more distraction.  You could try it on the deck or in the driveway.  Remember to always start over if he gets distracted.

WALKING TOGETHER … Heel Position

Luring:

Begin with your dog facing you.  Back up 3-5 steps while encouraging your dog to follow.

Using a treat in your left hand, lure your dog to your left side and behind you while you are backing up.

Begin to walk forward and turn your treat hand so your palm is facing behind you.

When you dog follows the lure and is now walking beside you let him eat the lure.  He is now walking with you instead of charging ahead.  Do the same thing on the right side using the right hand.

TARGETING:

Repeat the exercise above but instead of using a treat in your hand ask your dog to target your hand as you bring your hand to your left side and behind you.  Click as he targets, walk forward and deliver your treat as the dog walks up beside you.  Repeat on your right side.

You can also do this exercise using a target stick.  This is especially helpful with a small dog.

PRACTICE often until you can do it easily and your dog quickly gets into position beside you by following your hand signal.  When you can do it well, you can use this whenever you want to get your dog under control and beside you.  We call this finding “HEEL POSITION”

CAPTURING:

Whenever you dog finds heel position by himself, click and treat it.  The more you reward him for this, the more often you will find your dog beside you.

WAIT

The Wait command tells your dog that he must not move past the spot. His position doesn't matter - he can be sitting, standing, or lying down and may even shift positions while waiting, just not go forward until released.  You will use it mostly at thresholds, having your dog wait for permission before going through doorways, getting out of cars, etc.  A dog that blows past you to get out the door or up or down the steps is rude as well as dangerous. 

So, here's how to teach "Wait".  Find a place in your house that has an obvious demarcation between rooms - such as tile to carpet. Holding your dog by the collar (or leash if he's little) walk up to the entrance and gently hold him by the (buckle) collar. Tell him "Wait" and then wait a moment yourself. If he starts to go on, just pull him gently back. When he has held his spot for a few moments, release him to walk on over with "Okay or Free". Repeat several times until he no longer tries to move across until released.

The next step is to start as before, but after you have said "Wait", take a small step yourself across the threshold (still holding his collar). Again, if he moves forward just pull him back. When he settles,  release though.

When he is doing well with all of that, start practicing with an actual door, but use an indoor one at first. Walk the dog up to the closed door, tell him "Wait", and reach for the knob, replacing him as needed. When he does manage to wait, release & give a treat. (and/or go on through the door with him!).  The next steps would be to jiggle the doorknob a bit, then to open door slightly, then to open all the way, then to open and actually step through yourself. Be sure to take the steps as slowly as needed, and always release him with "Okay" so he doesn't learn to release himself.  Practice with lots of different inside doors. When he has those down, try for an outside door. (Hint... at first, don't practice this when he's dying to get out!) You may have to go back several steps at first - that's fine. Go back as far as you need until he is steady then go up through the steps again.  Practice with lots of doors, gates, etc., and don't forget the car doors! Try to get all family members to practice this with the dog - this is especially important with children who are likely to get knocked over by a dog rushing to get out. Happy Waiting!! 

REALLY RELIABLE RECALL™

SET UP FOR SUCCESS

1.     Teach your dog the NAME Game and play often.

2.     REWARD all recalls anywhere and anytime.

3.     Play recall games every day.

4.     Try not to call your dog to you to do anything unpleasant.

HERE WE GO!

1.     Decide on your RRR signal.

A.     It must be different from your regular recall signal.

B.     It must be clear, crisp and carry a long way.

C.     It should start with your dog’s name.

2.     Your RRR signal is very special.  For the next couple of months use it only 3 times a day and only when the following conditions are met.

A.     You are 100% certain that your dog will come to you.  He can already be coming to you when you call or he can be very close to you.  Plan it in the house when he already wants to come to you.

B.     You are prepared to reward him like he just did something miraculous.  Reward with treats, praise, rubs, scratches, dinner, car rides, toys, games …… anything your dog loves …. Use your imagination.  Make the reward big, memorable and special.

3.  Make sure you only give your RRR signal once.  If you repeat it, it won’t work!

Play the NAME GAME

Attention is the key that makes training possible

Actually your dog is paying attention and learning things all the time.  The NAME GAME will teach him to pay attention and learn from you.

RULES:

Start to play when there are no distractions.  Your kitchen is usually a great place to start.

Say your dog’s name or nickname, one time only, in a clear tone.  Plan to do it when he wants to look at you anyway.

Click your clicker immediately as he turns to look at you.

As soon as you click, reward with small pieces of treat, praise, part of his dinner, toys, games or anything else your dog really likes.

The first week, see if you can play at least 10 times a day when there are very few distractions.

Oops!  You say his name and he doesn’t look.  Run and hide!  Grab his toy and play with it yourself!  Whip out a tasty treat and eat it yourself or at least pretend to!  Grab your car keys and run out the door!

It is very important to only say his NAME once.

Next week when you come to class we will be adding distractions so practice often and reward generously!